Climbing Roses

Climbing roses are not self-clinging and need supports of trellis or horizontal wires to which the shoots can be tied.
Set the lowest wire 45cm (18in) off the ground and space subsequent wires 30cm (1ft) apart
If training roses up pillars, arches or pergolas, twist the main shoots gently around the uprights, keeping them as horizontal as possible, to encourage flowering shoots to form low down
If the main stems are slow to branch, tip-prune them to the first strong
A bud is a small, undeveloped shoot that contains the potential for new growth. Buds are typically found on stems, where they can be apical (found at the tip) or axillary (found between leaf axils) and may develop into leaves, shoots or flowers.
bud to encourage side shoots, otherwise leave them to fill the available space
Remove dead, damaged, diseased or spindly growth, and
Deadheading is the process of removing spent flowers from plants to encourage more blooms and prevent seed production. This helps to redirect the plant's energy into producing more flowers rather than producing seeds.
deadhead during the flowering season to encourage further flowering

First remove dead, diseased or dying branches
Then tie in any new shoots needed to fill supports
Prune any flowered side shoots back by two thirds of their length
If the plant is heavily congested, cut out any really old branches from the base to promote new growth

Remove all dead, diseased, dying and weak shoots
Cut some of the old woody branches to the ground, retaining a maximum of six young, vigorous stems that can be secured to supports
Saw away any dead stumps at the base of the plant, where rain can collect and encourage rot
Shorten side shoots on the remaining branches and prune back the tips by one third to one half, to encourage branching
Give pruned plants a boost in the following spring by spreading a granular rose fertiliser over the soil and mulch them with a 5cm (2in) layer of garden compost or well rotted manure
For other details go to the RHS webpage via this link